LOVE ON THE ROAD

THIS WEEK ZOË' FEEDS A NEW PASSION

As someone who can't finish a meal without eating something sweet – including breakfast – a discovery of delicious desserts has lifted my spirits.

India's chaos is bothering me less now I've discovered the joy of a murgh tikka chicken dish followed by a sticky gulab jamun pud.

In fact, I'm experiencing a second love affair – with food.

Train Man sometimes looks at me polishing off pudding with pride – a girl who eats with gusto – and at others, disgust.

But in Rishikesh last Tuesday, as I ordered a pudding called Hello To The Queen, he looked relieved to see me smiling again, despite the madness around us.

Not only did the name make me giggle, it tasted amazing: a biscuity base layered with mashed banana and lashings of vanilla ice cream. It was so vast, Train Man and our friends Diccon and Julie joined in.

But it wasn't just pudding that danced on my taste buds. In the past week, we've feasted for next to nothing on curries and naan galore washed down with banana lassis.

On Wednesday we took a three-hour taxi ride 32 miles north to Mussoorie, at the foothills of the Himalayas, for another food awakening.

At the Kalsang restaurant they serve momos, which translates as ‘dumplings to die for'.

On Thursday, we walked past a Hindu wedding and got roped in.

Our self-consciousness soon faded when we saw the spread: vats of creamy dhal, piles of samosas, and rose water ice creams covered in flowers so beautiful, I didn't know whether to eat them or put them in my hair.

And after all that? Beans on toast for breakfast at Hotel Padmini Nivas.

But the bliss soon turned to panic. Diccon and Julie go home tomorrow and it's dinner à deux from now on. Oh no! What if Train Man and I become one of those couples in restaurants who never speak...?

Miles travelled: 32 around a mountain Terse sentences exchanged: Still none! Puddings eaten: 17

Next week: Is Zoë's love life going off the rails?