LOVE ON THE ROAD

THIS WEEK ZOË GETS HUNGRY FOR HER EASY RIDER

I've forgotten all about my homesickness. I don't even care that I have a terrible case of helmet hair. I've spent the past four days on the back of an old motorbike, holding on tightly to Train Man's waist… and I've loved it.

Our friends Liz and Simon arrived safe and well in Hanoi with chocolate intact, and we headed off the next day with our guide, Cuong. He runs a company which takes tourists beyond the city limits on Russian motorbikes, giving them a Vietnamese experience no other smug traveller we've met yet has bragged about.

The whole adventure reignited a spark between Train Man and me. I think it was the romance of holding onto him as he heroically negotiated scary roads. I wasn't even miffed when he stalled our bike on a railway crossing (Train Man indeed) – that's how intoxicating the scenery has been.

But back in Hanoi last night, Cuong unleashed a local experience on us that brought me back down to earth. We went to a snake restaurant for a farewell meal, as snake is special occasion fare here. Liz and I grimaced when a cobra was brought to our table, its throat slit, and the (still-beating) heart put on a side plate. The body was then made into nine dishes, one of which, snakeskin crackers, looked like shoes I'd owned in 1994.

"I'm not eating that!" shouted Liz, as I cunningly pushed my food around the plate with a smile, much like Posh at The Ivy, I imagine. Train Man and Simon were the heroes again, scoffing snake spring rolls and downing shots of snake bile as if they might actually like it. Gross.

Snake bile gave TM an extra spark. But as he leaned in for a kiss, I caught a whiff of snake bile breath and almost heaved. Really, how will I ever kiss him again?

Miles covered: 288, on two wheels

Terse sentences exchanged: 1

Desire to buy a cheap Vespa: Rising

Next week: Zoë's feeling neglected

Comments

[Del Preston]

Snake bile? That doesn't sound very nice.

I was in Hanoi once. I had to find 1000 M&M's to fill a brandy glass, or Ozzy wouldn't go on stage that evening. Perhaps that's a story for another time...

Love the column,

Del
xxx

[rollergirl]

"One of which, snakeskin crackers, looked like shoes I'd owned in 1994." LOL! Loving your work. Del, can we have the full story please.